Central American in Dallas

While owner Gloria Rubio is Salvadoran, she certainly knows she's in the Lone Star State and knows that most of us have a special place in our stomachs for Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes. That's why the menu here is split pretty much down the middle between the foods of her Central American homeland and local favorites. There is even an all-inclusive section named Salvatex Combinations that includes fusion platters such as carne de res asada Salvatex (tender grilled steak with chimichurri, an enchilada and black beans with rice). Of course, if you want a burrito, weighty enchiladas or crispy tacos, Gloria's got you covered -- in yellow cheese and heavy sauces -- even though folks really come here for the Salvadoran selections, like lechon asado with plantains and yucca.

Pollo Campero--"country chicken"--is the Dallas outpost of a Guatemalan fast-food chain that is hugely popular in Central America. Legend has it that Guatemalans often carry boxes and bags full of Pollo Campero victuals on their flights to the United States, filling the plane with the aroma of fried chicken. The chicken is either distributed to homesick relatives or sold by the piece for a profit. It's the only mass merchant of what it calls "Latin American fried chicken," crispy and coated with adobo seasonings. If you don't mind chicken that still has a few deep-fried pin feathers--the "country" attitude evidently extends to plucking--you'll find the stuff addictive. It's served with white corn tortillas or rolls, plus a few sides--the best was the "Campero beans," fat pintos spiked with strong bacon flavor.