Hot Dogs in Dallas

Chicago-style hot dog scene was started by two Chicago-area transplants, and that pedigree definitely shines through. It’s a small spot with a tiny dining area, practically no seating and limited parking, attached to an auto body shop to boot, but that’s all part of the charm and makes it very reminiscent of hole-in-the-wall hot dog shops in Chicagoland. The dog is done correctly, using Vienna Beef and the proper bun dragged through the garden, and there's also Maxwell Street Polish sausage, Italian beef and a rarity in north Texas, the humble pizza puff (think of a larger, cheesier Totino's pizza roll).

First a sad bit of news, this food truck is only opened on Thursdays (they mostly do catering gigs). But great news! Now there's something to look forward to on Thursday!

Owner Matthew Toback is on a mission to bring superior dogs to Dallas. And he's serious. He's been studying dogs and toppings for years. He spent more than five years searching for the perfect frank. He landed on a custom-made premium beef and pork frank made by Hummel Brothers, an almost-century old butcher based in New Haven, Connecticut. 

If you stop by, be sure to start with the classic dog, plain and simple to get a good groundwork laid. A primer. For the bun, Toback employs a slightly sweet EuroClassic brioche — strong enough for the job but not overbearing. When biting through, pay attention to the snap of the Hummel frank, with a touch of that hickory smoke spices that give it life.

Then work your way into any of the fancier dogs after that. If we had to pick we'd go with The Original Texas Style with a slice of marinated grilled jalapeno cradling the frank, topped with house-made Sloppy Eddie Chili, Raye's Mustard, jalapenos and the Dublin sweet onions. Or if you like a little more kick there's hot and spicy onion and pepper mix.

But the real winner on the Showcase Showdown here is the Eddie Mac: mac and cheese topped with the Sloppy Eddie Chili. It's killer. It's served in a rectangular deep dish tray and is kind of like a baked lasagna. This menagerie of pasta, cheese and chili is enough to induce a food coma for one; or for sharing with the family — or not sharing but hiding in the back of the fridge for later (easily reheat it in the same container). A nostalgic Frito Pie is similarly dressed with a hefty scoop of chili, cheese, diced onions and jalapenos. 

The star of the show at Sumo Shack is bao, the steamed bun that’s probably best-known in Texas as an accompaniment to Peking duck. And few foodstuffs — tacos, for instance — offer as much room for a chef to play around and get crazy for as low a price. Sumo Shack passes the basic test of consistently producing fresh, well-textured bao that never seems flavorless or like it’s been sitting out. And thank goodness for the burger bao, a miraculous new fusion food. Sumo Shack opts for the classic burger experience, one that wouldn’t be out of place at Keller’s or Off-Site Kitchen, except for the whole Chinese steamed bun thing.