Polynesian in Dallas

Famous Hawaiian chef Roy Yamaguchi (he has a TV show and 32 restaurants bearing his name) brings his island-Asian-Cal-Gallic rumba to the land of lone stars and two-stepping steers with mostly satisfying results. The menu changes nightly except for a couple of worthy stalwarts like the Ahi Tuna poketini," a kind of raw tuna and avocado parfait assembled in a martini glass, and the Japanese misoyaki butterfish. Roy's also has an intelligently constructed wine list with emphasis on those wines (species other than chardonnay and the cab-merlot glut) that pair well with this Asian-influenced cuisine. Plus there are no leis, grass skirts or karaoke Don Hos. Not even by special request.