Roman in Dallas

Julian Barsotti’s third and newest Italian restaurant, Sprezza, does a poor job acting like it just rolled out of bed. Evidence is everywhere of the great care invested in every detail, from the light fixtures to the wine list, from the serving dishes to, ironically, the restaurant’s name. But in a short time, Sprezza is already threatening to up-end more established restaurants in Dallas. Sprezza is not a big, dramatic place. The menu is mostly pizzas that rotate on and off the menu frequently and pastas. The cooking philosophy is all about respecting great-quality ingredients, not imposing crazy ideas on them. Flavors are fresh, not bold. If Sprezza was a football player, it would score touchdowns but never bust out a victory dance.